From Edinburgh to Shetland

After the journey to libraries in Manchester and Sheffield I headed north to Edinburgh and stayed with Jon and Eleni. Jon is a friend and wonderful illustrator . Over the years we’ve worked together regularly and I’ve always loved the work we’ve done together and illustrated a couple of bookmarks printed in Oxford and Winchester early in the Summer. We’re also working together on the Alan Bennett book that we are making about the libraries in his life which was published originally in the London Review of Books.

On Thursday 10, I headed from Jon and Eleni’s down to the National Poetry Library in the centre of Edinburgh. It is a fine place, very welcoming and a beautiful visual space, lots of poetry (letterpress by the wonderful Robert Smails Printing Works) on the wall.

Here, I met Rebecca from Ploterre, who had designed and illustrated today’s bookmark. It is a visual feast, but with a great story. Becky writes:

‘The text ‘just passing through’ is a slightly changed line from Ellen Renton’s ‘passing’ poem (she’s an Edinburgh poet - https://ellenrenton.co.uk/). This is her reading the poem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T96mFkA8rus

It’s essentially about climate change / human treatment of the earth. So it’s a bit around nature, it links to the poetry library and being in Edinburgh but also linked quite well to Press On - passing through the libraries of different places…

The design itself is a map. And each letter (in computational terms) has a number attached to it - so I used the numerical values of each letter from this line to create the different elements. So the curve of the river is made from the word 'just’ the contours have been created from the word ‘passing’ and the path through the bookmark has been made from ’through’.

Later I headed off on the bicycle towards the Forth Bridge and cycling 30 odd miles before arriving at today’s stop at Glenfarg just short of Dundee.

I must also mention the slightly terrifying experience of finding myself cycling on the A90 from Dundee. Which my Komoot (cycling app) took me onto. I’ve got to say the A90 isn’t a road any sane cyclist would want to be on, basically it’s a 80mph non-motorway to Aberdeen, my 20 minutes on the road were about as scary a bike ride as is possible and ended with a police blue light escort the last mile or two back onto the relative safety of a B road. I have to say the blue light escort was much more fun and probably as near a Tour de France experience as I’ll get.

Then two more cycling days which were great (and dry!) to Forfar and finally to Glen Dye. Glen Dye is a magical place, a long ride (and a bit of pushing) up the mountain road. Charlie and Caroline have put a lifetime of passion into this place, beautiful cabins and houses in wild and beautiful forestry and mountains. It was also very quiet and peaceful.

A short hop followed down to Aberdeen the next day and onto the 5pm ferry to Orkney.

I cycled to Orkney on my 2009 journey around the coast of Britain and loved it then.

This time I was looking forward to seeing my friend, the artist Joanne B Kaar who now lives in Stromness on Orkney.

The ferry arrived in Kirkwall around midnight and I’d booked to stay at the Kirkwall Hotel, a fine proud old hotel facing the harbour. My bicycle left propped on the reception desk for the night.

Early next day I headed up to the brilliant Orkney library and archive, a brilliant community resource buzzing with people and ideas with an extensive island archive and research centre. Here I printed Peter Lord’s beautiful Morph on Orkney bookmark. Peter and his wife Karen are long time supporters of our letterpress adventures and also regular visitors to Orkney.

Later I cycle the 17 or so miles over to Stromness across the beautiful Orkney landscape. Stromness is a wonderful picture perfect little town and harbour where the Scrabster ferry arrives. It’s also where Joanne has set up her home and studio. Joanne is a member of the Soulisguoy Printmakers and we popped down the road to the studios where I talked about my project and learnt about their work.

On the 15th October (next day) I nervously cycled back to Kirkwall in a slightly worrying cross wind to catch the midnight ferry to Shetland. I popped back to the Kirkwall Hotel for a fine supper and I enjoyed listening to an Orkney farmer meeting with his accountant and being told he should travel first class to Edinburgh now to spend a little of his money (he didn’t sound too keen on that).

Next morning the Northland ferry (which were all amazing) pulled into Lerwick about 7.30 and I was met by Jono Sandiland, who is a Shetland islander who also happened to train as a printmaker in Bristol a few years ago. Jono runs the workshops and publishing at Gaada, an artist-led social enterprise print collective on Shetland. If you check out their website https://www.gaada.org/events, you’ll see what a buzzy and brilliant place Gaada is. It is flourishing and works with artists and islander to produce challenging and exciting print and published books and zines.

At the Lerwick Library I printed a beautiful bookmark illustrated by Helen Balfour, a Shetland artist who has been creating work in Grytviken, South Georgia. Helen’s illustration is of a Guddick, a traditional Shetland riddle. Lots of people came along and printed their own bookmark which included the Guddick in a Shetland dialect.

I was sad to leave the islands the next day, both Orkney and Shetland are special and beautiful and very welcoming places and I hope that I will be back sometime.

Back on the ferry and this time managed to wangle a cabin, which I have to say was worth every penny with a tv (a tv!) fancy shower and comfort. This journey was a long 14 hour one back to Aberdeen where I’d been invited to visit Peacocks, a famous printmaking workshop which works with artists but also does important work in the community. Jon Reid got in touch and gave a brilliant tour of Peacocks which is a brilliant example of a printshop both producing brilliant international artist’s work but working closely with the creative community.

Then the long haul on the train back to Bristol.

I did one more short visit by taking a train to Telford and riding to Much Wenlock to stay in the amazing Wenlock Abbey and then to print at the smallest library in Shropshire, the lovely little public library in Much Wenlock.

It’s now the end of November and I’m getting the Crowdfunder rewards out this week.

I’m sorry they are a little later than I’d hoped, I’m just waiting for some lovely hand made boxes to get the bookmark sets out. But hoping that everything will be in the post by the first week in December.

Scotland bound

Planning the next bit of the adventure

Since being back in Bristol after the Manchester-Sheffield part, I’ve been planning the the next part of the journey to Scotland.

My plan is to train it up to Edinburgh where I’m hoping to print a bookmark that the good folk of ploterre have designed at The National Poetry Library. I’ll also get to catch up with my friend Jon McNaught, who is a wonderful illustrator, and we’ve worked together on a number of things.

Then I’ll cycle to Aberdeen a three day 150 mile hike. I’m hoping the weather is kind. I plan to get the ferry to Orkney from Aberdeen where I’ll print at the Kirkwall Library and travel to see my friend, Joanne B Kaar and visit the Soulisquoy Printmakers with her.

From there I’ll head back from Stromness to Kirkwall and get the ferry to Lerwick on Shetland. All very exciting and I look forward to telling more about Edinburgh, Orkney and Shetland on the next instalment.

Once again, thank you for supporting this project, I definitely couldn’t have done it without your help.

I am looking forward to collating all the bookmarks and sending them out.

Here is a little diary of the last bit, printing in Manchester and Sheffield.


Thursday 19th September 2024

Today I printed at Chetham’s Library is the oldest library in Britain has Britain, it has been a public library continuously for 350 years. I immediately got told off for taking a cup of tea at the start of the tour (even though it was empty, the tour guide, said there was still some liquid in the cup, which to be fair, there was).

The library is best known as the meeting place in 1845 of Marx and Engels and as the place that they wrote at least part of what would become The Communist Manifesto. My friend Jane Randfield, had cut a wonderful wood engraving of Marx and Engels. I added two versions of text: one a sort of caption and description of the meeting of the two at Chetham’s. And the other a bit of the chorus of the Internationale. Both seemed to work well with the brilliant detail of the engraving.

Friday 20th September 2024

I have to admit to not quite organising this leg as well as I might. So I was left with a Friday and no library to visit. I had an idea to print a nice Woody Guthrie bookmark that I’d prepared and my good friend Jeb had cut a lino for this one.

When I was 14 at school in Stafford I discovered the library had vinyl records and I took to heading up to the library in the lunch break. I was drawn to Woody Guthrie records, I imagine that at the time, I’d not heard of him or new of his songs. So I must have been drawn to his travel-weary face and maybe the ‘this machine kills fascists’ wording on his guitar. Anyhow this introduction became a lifelong investment in Woody and his songs. In 2011 I went to the Woody Guthrie Center which at that time was in the Hudson Valley and I got to meet Woody’s granddaughter. She read a beautiful piece of her grandfather’s called ‘I hate a song’ which is still on NPR I even went to a concert in Beacon to celebrate Woody’s 100 years since his birth and I got to hear Pete Seeger talk about their time together.

As Woody was a rambling man I thought is was appropriate to print his bookmark on the street, so I chose St Peters Square in Manchester which is in from of the amazing Manchester Central Library, a neoclassical rotunda built in the early 1930s.

It’s a thriving hub with a great cafe reference library and an amazing reading room below the glass rotunda roof.

and the square in-between the tramlines and the library was perfect for me and Woody to do our thing.

Lots of people took or printed bookmarks, and lots of people now know a little more about Woody and his work now.

The print we made includes his brilliant and oft left out verse from This Land is Your Land. I have to say that the two bookmarks printed in two days, reflect the mood of Manchester, which seems like a progressive and successful Labour run city and one that was very pleasant to stay in, especially as I was staying with an old friend, Dolores. Thanks as well to Josef, who not only helped organise the visit to Chetham’s Library, but also supplied cake and the infamous tea.

Saturday and Sunday 21/22nd September

Saturday was a cycling day and quite a bit of hill cycling. The hills definitely found me out for lack of fitness.

I decided to just get about 22 miles into the Peak district and spent (quite a nice) night in Chapel-en-le-Frith in the Royal Oak that had rooms. I got to the pub just before a lighting storm arrived.

On Saturday I cycled from Manchester to Chapel-en-le-Frith which is at the foot of the Peak District on a fine day. Then Sunday I cycled from Chapel to Sheffield on a wet, windy and misty day. It was a hard day, but enjoyable, not cold either.

Just before I came down off Stanage Edge I met up with Tomo Thompson who had a welcome flask of sweet hot chocolate.

Tomo is brilliant. He is in the mountain rescue team that deals with rescues and issues on the Peaks, he also runs the Campaign for the Protection of Rural England in Sheffield and the Peaks area. He has dedicated his life for the past 5-6 years to the Peaks. So it was great to spend time with Tomo.

Monday 23rd September

On the Monday we headed to Broomhill Community Library in Sheffield. Broomhill was where our bookmark subject lived and worked for most of her life.

Ethel Haythornthwaite was an environmental campaigner and pioneer of the countryside movement. Ethel helped set up the Campaign for the Protection of Rural England (Peaks District and South Yorkshire) and was the group’s secretary for 56 years.

The CPRE group had organised and funded a great book about Ethel called, well, Ethel and written by Helen Mort.

The lino that I printed of Ethel was cut by my friend Gemma Trickey and printed beautifully.






Press On- heading north

So onto a northern English stage of Press On.

I’m headed first to Chetham’s Library in Manchester, it is the oldest public library in Britain. being in continuous use for 350 years. It is also the place where Marx and Engels met in the Summer of 1845 and wrote part of what would become The Communist Manifesto. And as it happens I’m staying with a friend whose mum was the first woman to be on the committee of Communist Party of Britain. The amazing wood engraver, Jane Randfield has cut a beautiful wood engraving to celebrate the Chetham’s link with Marx and Engels and I’ll be printing bookmarks at the library on Thursday 19 September.

When I was at school in Stafford in the early 1970s, I used to wander up the road to visit the record library. It was here that I first borrowed Woody Guthrie records and heard the great man sing. So my good friend, Jeb Loy Nichols has cut a lovely lino of Woody and I think I’ll find a little spot somewhere in Manchester on Friday (maybe outside the Central Library) and print my debt of gratitude bookmark for Woody (and Jeb). It has on it the oft missed verse of This Land (the one about the No Trespassing sign). Anyhow I’ll report back and let you know how it goes.

Then I’m on the bike and headed over the Peaks to visit my friend Tomo, and we’re going to print a bookmark dedicated to the countryside campaigner Ethel Haythornthwaite. My friend,Gemma Trickey has made a wonderful linocut of Ethel and I’m very excited to print if at the Broomhill Community Library in Sheffield on Monday. I’m going to sell some bookmarks (usually people print their own at no charge), but the money will go to the Peaks Campaign for the Protection of Rural England (CPRE) which Ethel helped set up in the 1920s and 30s.

Then back home to plan for the Scottish leg of the bookmark printing adventure.

From the first libraries that I’ve been to which are between Bristol and London, I’ve made this list of observations about visiting libraries so far:

They are a place of safety and security.

They are welcoming places.

They have a broad offer, including computers, books (obvs), book groups, meeting places, places of learning, talks, music, and poetry readings, community hubs.

They are warm places in the winter (with sofas).

You can nowadays take 20-30 books out at a time (though remember to take the wheelbarrow).

I’ve met and talked to librarians, volunteers and library users about their relationships with their library.

I’ve met lots of old friends and new friends who have put me up and fed me.

The Chilterns are nice to cycle through.

Luton is tricky and has a massive hill that I’d recommend not trying to cycle up in the rush hour if you have a printing press on your bicycle.

The National Poetry library has a very fancy and valuable carpet.

St Brides library is brilliant (of course).

Stevenage has the best network of cycle lanes in England.

Here are some photos from printing at the National Poetry Library on the Southbank, and a nice photo of Diva, who runs the Caught by the River website and I haven’t seen since Port Eliot days. It was lovely to catch up with Diva.

Check out the fancy carpet (it’s grade one listed).

Printing at the St Bride Foundation

Since I set up my little print shop in the centre of Bristol eleven years ago, I’ve been aware of the St Bride Foundation, just off Fleet Street, and it’s significance in the history of letterpress printing in Britain. So over the years I’ve known Mick and the workshop team and have kept in touch through print fairs and Wayzgoose over the years. So I was very happy and honoured to visit the library and workshop yesterday and print a bookmark close to my heart. As some of you know, Paul Peter Piech was a significant figure in printing and illustration particularly his work for positive change. Olwen, Paul’s daughter sent me one of Paul’s linocuts to use for a bookmark I knew that I would print the bookmark here where Paul worked and lived for much of his working life (in London) and somewhere that he would have known.

I wanted to add something of St Bride, so set an alphabet in type from the workshop, Stymie, a 1930s font, a slab serif. Of course, my dyslexic brain couldn’t even set the alphabet correctly, so the first half of the print run on the bike press was wrong, though as usual most people loved the mistake and preferred the ‘wrong’ edition.

Well it was a wonderful visit and great to catch up with old friends and of course we ended up in the Crown and Sugar Loaf on the corner of Fleet Street.

Printing at two libraries in Bristol, my hometown

The very first library I rode to was my local library, Redland, just about half a mile from home on the 5 July 2024. I have made some prints for Richard Long, the Turner Prize winning Land Artist, and during one of our conversations he talked about how important visiting Redland Library was to him as a child. So it seemed an apt starting point for my adventure. Richard very kindly made a double sided piece for the project. A bookmark sized artwork using Avon mud. I took a while converting and having a printing block made. Then and the most difficult part was matching the mud colour in printing ink which I eventually did. So it was such an honour for me to print the bookmarks on a Friday in July to print Richard's artwork at the library of his childhood.

The second library where I printed in Bristol was Marksbury Road Library in Bedminster. Wilf Whitty is a good friend and a very talented Bristol-based graphic designer. Marksbury Road library is Wilf's local library and where he and his daughters would go regularly. Wilf chose to use some bare wood to print with (a nice natural connection to Richard Long's piece).


Press on: Oxford to Stevenage (via Wendover)

The ride to Oxford on the bicycle was amazing across the Chilterns, only blighted a little by the slightly scary half hour on the A420 into Oxford. I had such a lovely stay with Richard and Alex. Richard having made an excellent pie and lemon and almond cake for my visit. Their house full of wonderful letterpress ephemera and prints. I cycle over to the Weston and had a sight of the amazing print shop that Richard helps run at the Bodleian before heading over to Radio Oxford to talk about this little adventure. I love talking about cycling and letterpress so it feels pretty easy to do and I suppose I feel quite proud to be in a small way an ambassador for both.

The printing at the Bodleian went well and I estimate around 130 people printed their own Alan Bennett bookmark which must be a record for my travels with the Printing Bike. A bonus was being set up in the Weston Library next to the café. One bookmark printer offered to buy a coffee for me and Alex brought me a tray of tea and cake. It was a dream morning really.

Then a 55km ride to Wendover, which was lovely really through the little village of Oxfordshire and then Buckinghamshire.

I know Nina and Will through our friends at Caught by the River and many happy years printing with Jeff and many great people including the brilliant Pete Fowler We were saying how much we miss those days. And I loved visiting Will’s folks pub the King and Queen and also staying in their fantastic book and print filled house (and wonderful garden). Also in Wendover I got to visit and catch up with another Caught by the River friend, Carl who now runs the amazing Real Magic bookshop just up from the community library where I printed all morning. The bookmark was one of Will’s poems, the Mid Country about this little corner of the world. And I was able to use one of Jeb Loy Nichols linos that we made a few years ago. Anyhow the printing was over in no time and I was able to talk to a few folk involved in running the community library about keeping it going (and thriving). And then on the road to Stevenage, via Luton and a huge busy hill out of Hatters country.

Thanks to all those who supported this project through crowdfunder.

A full set of the bookmarks printed on the journey are available to buy in the shop and will be shipped in the autumn. All profits will go to helping Nick visit more public libraries on the printing bike this summer

Press on: Basingstoke to Oxford

Yesterday I was at the brilliant Winchester Gallery where they have a great exhibition called How to Draw a Bicycle I met the folk who organise the ride Chase the Sun which is so much fun. I printed some bookmarks and talked about the Printing Bike and how it came about.

Today I loaded up the Printing Bike at the Premiere Inn in Basingstoke. Premiere Inn’s let you take bicycles into bedrooms, which is quite an ask with the heavily loaded Printing BIke. In the lift I have to lift the front end up into the top corner of the lift to pull the back into the lift, quite something to see.

The ride over the Chilterns was brilliant. Mostly because Jon Heslop told me about ‘following the line’ on the Garmin. Following the line is a revelation because you literally just do that as you ride, no map which make it so much simpler,after all, do you really need to know how may houses or churches you are passing?

I met some nice folk on the journey: David (CoastRider) who, like me, has ridden clockwise around the British Isles. And then Anke, who is a printer and we’d met at a British Print Society day in Bristol a few years ago. And finally Mike Hardiman whose bike was loaded up and headed on his first bicycle camping trip. I’d forgotten how social a bike ride can be.

Finally I ended up in Oxford to stay with Alex and Richard, and tomorrow I will print at the Weston Library part of the Bodliean Library. Very exciting.

Thanks to all those who supported this project through crowdfunder.

A full set of the bookmarks printed on the journey are available to buy in the shop and will be shipped in the autumn. All profits will go to helping Nick visit more public libraries on the printing bike this summer.

Press On: an adventure on a bicycle with a printing press visiting libraries

Press On is an adventure that will take the printing bike from library to library across Britain printing bookmarks along the way. Each bookmark design will be inspired by the words and images of writers and artists in support of public libraries.

Our libraries have been under enormous pressure and have mostly survived by local support. I want to contribute to the work these communities do by visiting as many libraries as I can (as far as Shetland) and working with artists and writers to produce a limited run of unique bookmarks for each library, all printed in situ at the library itself.

The project was funded by Crowdfunder and included producing specific letterpress printed things such as a full set of bookmarks which are now in the website shop. Also a wonderful new edition of a book by Paul Peter Piech called Ugly Pieces of Metal. There will also be a beautiful book written by Alan Bennett about the libraries in his life that was first published by the London Review of Books. The book will be printed and published sometime in 2024 and available in the website shop. The book is illustrated by Jon McNaught.

The printing bike is a bespoke bicycle made for me by Robin Mather. It carries a letterpress Adana press, inks, type and blocks; everything for me to print a small print run at each stop along my journey.

Ugly Pieces of Metal book

I love everything about Paul Peter Piech Nearly thirty years after his death, the world of anti-establishment and protest art is finally catching up with his thoughts and ideas. The originality of his work however, remains unique and continues to delight. His daughter Olwen whose Instagram dedication to her dad’s work brings new work almost each day.

With this in mind, I was so excited when I came across his book first published in 1976 Ugly Pieces of Metal. Not only that but Olwen gave her blessing to us reprinted the book in it’s entirety. The money for the sale of the book will go towards the adventure to visit public libraries on the Printing Bike and print bookmarks. The bookmarks tell the stories of people’s connection to a particular library.

The book is beautiful and poetic diatribe about the motor car. Maybe not so much a controversial now, but it certainly was in 1976.

198x142mm landscape, six lino prints by PPP, 16 pages and printed letterpress on Zerkall 170gsm paper, cover is Fenner Colorset 350gsm crimson. It is Singer sewn. Typeset by hand in Montype Joanna.

The book is now available in the website shop and it sold in support of the Press On project

Pictures at an exhibition

Last week saw the launch of Journeyman, an exhibition of craft, bicycles and print at the Devon Guild of Craftsmen. This is a retrospective of 10 years of Nick’s travels around and across Britain and Ireland, to Naples and along the River Hudson, each journey with a purpose of meeting makers and craftspeople. The exhibition includes films of cratspeople, photography and original letterpress prints from The Letterpress Collective. As Nick said in his introduction to the show, the images and films give voice to some of the people who quietly work away in their studios and workshops as well as those who are part of this country’s larger craft-based businesses.

The exhibition continues until Sunday 8 March.
www.crafts.org.uk

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Exhibition supported by Hiut Denim and HebTroCo.

Exhibition events

Sunday 2 February - 10.30am - 3.30pm
WORKSHOP: Traditional letterpress printing
Led by Nick Hand & Ellen Bills, adults £50
Booking essential.
 
Sunday 8 March - 10.30am - 3.30pm
WORKSHOP: Traditional letterpress printing
Led by Nick Hand & Ellen Bills, adults £50
Booking essential.

Journeyman. A celebration of British craft and slow travel.

The Department has been busy over Christmas preparing for a new exhibition which will bring together for the first time the images and words of craftspeople met by Nick on journeys across Britain, Ireland, the Hudson Valley and Naples (mainly on two-wheels).

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The exhibition will be held in the Jubilee Gallery at the Devon Guild of Craftsmen in Bovey Tracey from Saturday 18 January to Sunday 8 March.

www.crafts.org.uk

Join us for the launch party Sunday 19 January 2pm to 5pm

Journeyman is Nick’s latest journey from Land’s End to John o’Groats on a bicycle with a printing press on the back, printing all the way from the factories and workshops of British makers. The exhibition will include images from this journey together with stories from more than 10 years of travelling and talking to makers, artists and craftspeople.

There will be maps, photography, original artworks and some of the products from craftspeople and the gallery will be filled with the voices of the makers talking about their craft from a showreel of selected photofilms made by Nick. Here are Luke Ives Pontifell and Kay Anderson to give you a preview.

Journeyman exhibition
Jubilee Gallery, Devon Guild of Craftsmen

Exhibition open daily Sat 18 Jan 2020 to Sun 08 Mar 2020
10.30am - 5.30pm. Free admission.

www.crafts.org.uk

Exhibition supported by Hiut Denim and HebTroCo.


Exhibition events

Sunday 2 February - 10.30am - 3.30pm
WORKSHOP: Traditional letterpress printing
Led by Nick Hand & Ellen Bills, adults £50
Booking essential.
 
Sunday 8 March - 10.30am - 3.30pm
WORKSHOP: Traditional letterpress printing
Led by Nick Hand & Ellen Bills, adults £50
Booking essential.



Highs and lows

Two people yesterday separately asked me the same question, it was ‘what was the low point of the journey?’ and I couldn’t think of what it might be. Now though I’ve had a little time I remember. I was up in Yorkshire coming down off the peaks and I was heading for Sheffield. There was a Sustrans route that took me off a road and onto a path and then onto a steep (very rocky) path, I had to carry my (very heavy) bicycle over each boulder. There was a bend up ahead on the path about 20m, so I thought maybe that was it, then there was another 20m run and another bend, by this time I realised I was committed to the route. A fell runner went by fairly astonished to see me and my bicycle. It went on and on and took me about an hour and a half to carry the bike over maybe half a mile. Enough time to see the fell runner on the way down again. By this time I had been riding on hills for about 8 hours, and so I was pretty exhausted at the top of the path. If there was some kind of ironman involving cycling and fell running (but carrying a printing press) this would be it.

After another 10 miles of riding I was pretty much done. I was outside a pub with a room and would have stayed there if it wasn’t for being committed to getting to Sheffield that night to see my friend Nick Wright at his scissor factory the next morning. So I managed to track down a large taxi in the next village and wrangle the bike and me and the press in and ride the last 15 miles into Sheffield. I remember being fairly terrified at the speed of the taxi and fairly convinced that had I not called him anyhow he would surely have flattened me somewhere on this road with his crazy driving.

Well that was my low point, being half way up a fell runners track in the peak district. 

On the other hand, and a question, no-one yet has asked, ‘what was the high point?’. Well, I think I had a few each day, and they were often being somewhere each day fairly brilliant and it could be in the middle of Birmingham on a canal towpath, or somewhere in the Highlands of Scotland, being alone on a mountainside. It was always connected to a feeling of wellbeing. The other thing was meeting people, some I knew and some I didn’t. Sometimes it would be a fleeting moment like a bloke with a dog in a village and a brief conversation or it could be spending the day with folk I hadn’t seen in eight years: either way I felt a big lift and loved spending time short and long with good people.

I’m on the train now the sea on my left the lowlands of the Scottish borders to my right. I feel very calm and relaxed and still a little isolated from life, and on the other very happy to be heading back to family and friends and getting on with life and thinking about the things planned for the next days and weeks.

 

Last Day on the Road

Seems a long time ago that I set out from Bristol to head for Land’s End, it has been an epic adventure for me. Yesterday I stayed at the Crask Inn, oddly, the only pub owned by the church. It’s in the middle of a moor in the north of Scotland. The photo of the bar below reminds me of the bar in Local Hero (film from the 80s and filmed near here).

It’s so interesting being on you own, observing our little island from a saddle. It is a very beautiful place and worth looking after as best we can. Our island is still healthy and full of amazing wildlife, the birds are out there singing as they always have (I heard a Corncrake on a Lewis moor a couple of days ago). But much like we are starting to think about looking after each other again (thanks Jeremy C), we do need to look after our islands much better. Cars: blimey, they are everywhere, they are noisy, dangerous and we can’t drive them without going at some crazy speed. 

I’ve met some brilliant people: even just fleetingly; like the old boy walking his dog in a little village who said he’d love to be going to the Crask Inn with me (it was 30 miles away), because there’s not good beer in his village and to take care on the decent of the mountain. Just little moments with people. Also it has been grey and wet and windy quite a bit. It’s an odd thing on a bicycle, things can be a bit in your head. I found myself talking to myself quite a lot, I don’t know if that’s good or not.

Was going to write how I found myself getting a bit crotchety with people asking what an earth made me thing it was a good idea putting a printing press on a bicycle. But now I’m starting to agree with them, so will leave that.

The road surface makes such a difference riding the bike: there are some lovely surfaces to ride on, but bumpy old roads are hard work. The wind in your face on a heavy bike makes for slow going. But when you fly on a lovely road with the world opening up around you, there is no better feeling. And everyday that happens.

It’s the last day now with just twelve miles to ride,  I’m staying with Joanne and Joe who I stayed with and met last in 2009 when I was cycling around the coast. They are brilliant: Joanne an artist and Joe, a mechanical engineer (though these days he helps Joanne with her work more). Very welcoming and it’s like the last 8 years never happened. So nice to spend the last day of riding with them.

I’m printing one last day somewhere around John O’Groats and then grabbing a cycle taxi (yes they do exist) with a bunch of other end to enders back to Inverness. I’m staying in a funny old hotel run by a 90 year old lady, it looks pretty run down, but couldn't resist booking it.

Then the 9.40am train back home to Bristol on Tuesday, arriving sometime around 9pm. I am very aware of all the people who have helped me with this little adventure and will write properly to let you know who they are. But my brain is a little windswept at the moment, so will do that another time.

Here are a few photos from the last two days.

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